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 Ball Gown Dress Party Prom Evening BlackChampagne L 12 $88.00 Time Remaining: 16d 21h 38m Buy It Now for only: $88.00 |
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Black Champagne
French wines and champagne by Bispo
The still wines (red, white, and rosé) that are produced in Champagne are low in quality and high in price. The white and rosé are the least
interesting, although with modern technology they should be more successful in a fresh,easy-to-drink style. Château Saran from Moët &
Chandon is a Coteaux Champenois blanc that has to achieve a certain minimum standard,since it comes from some of the vines reserved
for Dom Pérignon, which is a 50/50 blend, thus for every bottle of Château Saran produced, two bottles of Dom Pérignon must be sacrificed!Regrettably, the minimum standard is not that
special, and, although it is a nice enough,smooth, dry white wine when released, it does not improve after a year in bottle.
Although Champagne's notorious climate is very punishing on those who try to make a red wine every year, it is the Coteaux Champenois
rouge that can be the most fascinating of all.Black grapes rarely ripen sufficiently to obtain a good color without overextraction, which merely brings out the harsh, unripe tannins. Most reds are, therefore, light- to medium-bodied wines that barely hint at the flush of fruit found in a good Burgundy at the most basic level.
However, the all-too-rare exceptions can be singly impressive in their deep color and rich fruit. Such wines often have a slightly smoky style distinctly reminiscent of Pinot Noir. Bouzy
is the most famous of these wines, but a good vintage rarely occurs in the same village more than once in 10 years and various other growths can be just as good. The best reds from a successful vintage in Ambonnay, Aÿ, or any other winegrowing village in Champagne can
certainly be compared to Bouzy.Because of this intrinsic unreliability, it is impossible to recommend any Coteaux
Champenois on a regular basis. However,virtually all the famous houses have a bottle or two of an amazing rouge-usually Bouzy
from venerable vintages such as 1929, 1947,or 1959-but their current commercial bottlings are usually pretty mediocre. Bollinger is the
exception, with a barrique-matured Aÿ rouge from the lieu-dit La Côte aux Enfants, which consistently tries hard, even if it is more
successful in some years than others. Joseph Perrier's Cumières Rouge is also worth keeping an eye on. I cannot in all honesty list a top 10
of such a variable product, but to give readers a starting point, in addition to La Côte aux Enfants listed below and Joseph Perrier's Cumières Rouge already mentioned, the Coteaux Champenois I have had most joy from over the years include Paul Bara (Bouzy), Edmond
Barnault (Bouzy), André Clouet (Bouzy), Denois (Cumières), Paul Déthune (Ambonnay), Egly-Ouriet (Bouzy), Fresnet-baudot (Sillery),
Gatinois (Aÿ), René Geoffroy (Cumières),Gosset-Brabant (Aÿ), Patrick Soutiran (Ambonnay), and Emmanuel Tassin (Cellessur-Ource). The largest producer of Coteaux Champenois in all three denominations is
Laurent Perrier, but the quality is seldom more exciting than acceptable.
About the Author
Find out more about the author in:
Luna "Black Champagne"